Amalfi and Positano – Beautiful But Disappointing
During our week on the Amalfi Coast, Andy and I enjoyed relaxing and doing almost nothing in Minori. But we did take one day trip to the towns of Amalfi and Positano. Amalfi is obviously where the coast gets its name, and the town has a lot of history there about the region’s maritime roots. Positano has been featured in several films, such as Under the Tuscan Sun. They are the most famous towns on the coast, therefore they’re packed with tourists.
Exploring Amalfi
When our bus arrived in Amalfi, Andy and I started walking in towards the center of town. We could already feel the difference between this tourist hub and our sleepy coastal village. People were all around us taking pictures, souvenir shops were on every corner, and we saw more restaurants in a five minute walk than in all of Minori.
One of the biggest sights in Amalfi is the church, where we paid a 3€ entrance fee. The church has a nice inner courtyard with palm trees and a view of the bell tower, lots of art work from various time periods, and the tomb of St. Andrew. Overall it was nice, but it didn’t blow me away.
After the church, we decided to get some gelato. The guy working behind the counter in the shop we chose was holding a cup in one hand and a cone in the other, and we both picked the cup. Once the man scooped out our flavors, the guy at the register told Andy it was 10€ for our two cups.
This insanely high price was a bit surprising, and Andy went looking for a price sign. It turns out the man holding the cup and cone was only holding the large size, so we didn’t even realize there were options of smaller sizes. Feeling tricked, we paid and went outside to eat our ice cream.
We wandered through the streets to see a little more of the town and find lunch. Luckily we found reasonably priced pizza, but after that we were pretty much done with Amalfi. It was a beautiful town but the crowds of tourists and the opportunistic shop keepers were wearing us down. We went to the docks and bought our tickets for the ferry to Positano.
The shopping mall town of Positano
The views of the coast from the ferry were gorgeous, and I was really looking forward to seeing the famous town of Positano. But within minutes of getting off the ferry, I was already half-joking that we should go back. The lead-up to the dock was lined with stalls selling everything from excursions to trinkets, and I just wasn’t interested.
We saw a pathway hugging the coast leading away from town, so we started walking that way. It led to another beach, but since we didn’t have our bathing suits, we just hung out in the shade for awhile admiring the view. Eventually we decided to turn back and go check out the town.
Almost immediately we were faced with shops. Souvenirs, clothing, shoes, bags, and in between, a few trendy looking cafes. We climbed stairs and wound our way through the little alleyways of the town finding almost no sign of local culture. It was basically like an outdoor shopping mall marketing right at the tourists.
Our original plan was to find a restaurant with a nice view for dinner, but since that would’ve meant hanging out in Positano for another four hours before even sitting down to eat, we decided to leave.
I’m sure if we were staying in Positano or Amalfi we would’ve had more time to explore more and see beyond the theme park atmosphere, but the few hours we spent in both towns was enough to remind me of how much I liked Minori. So we took the ferry back to Amalfi, the bus from Amalfi to Minori, and had a relaxing dinner there instead. Amalfi and Positano were beautiful to look at but we left disappointed.
Update: We returned to the Amalfi Coast in October 2014 and stayed in Maiori, which is the next town over from Minori. It had a little more to offer in terms of restaurants and places to stay, but it still wasn’t overly crowded. I also recommend Ravello, which is up in the hills. It doesn’t have beach access, but it’s gorgeous and quieter than Amalfi Town and Positano.
You might also enjoy:
- Unconventional Italy Guidebook: 100 Locals Tell You What to Do, Where to Eat, and How to Fit In
- Top Sights in Rome to See Other Tourists
- How Much We Spent Living in Pisa and Traveling in Tuscany
- How Much We Spent Traveling on the Amalfi Coast
September 16, 2013 @ 9:06 AM
We’ve been to quite a few cities in Asia that look “picture perfect”, only to realize it is all a facade for shopping. It’s always so disappointing and I always leave these places feeling like I’ve been duped.
And it’s nice to see that pricing scams are alive in well outside of Asia—what a nasty trick that guy played on you with the gelato. 10 euros is outrageous!
September 16, 2013 @ 8:23 PM
I know, that 10 euros for 2 cups of gelato was so irritating. Definitely something that happens all over the world occasionally. I’m glad we got to see Amalfi and Positano, but yeah, just felt like too much shopping, too much set up just for tourists instead of real life.
September 16, 2013 @ 11:49 AM
I felt pretty much the same about Amalfi, though Positano was relatively quiet when we were there. It was April, so tourist season wasn’t yet in full swing. My favorite of the villages along the Amalfi Coast was definitely Ravello. It’s harder to reach, so definitely not packed with tourists.
September 16, 2013 @ 8:25 PM
We totally planned on going up to Ravello, especially since it is so close to Minori, but Minori just sucked us in. We had a hard time motivating ourselves to do anything besides relax and enjoy our view, which really was just what we needed by that point in our trip. If/when we make it back to that area, hopefully we’ll get up to Ravello.
September 16, 2013 @ 8:27 PM
I was having fun in Sorrento but it was May and I went there with a bunch of my Italian friends. There were no other people at all and we had a great time.
I understand your point of view- the crowd is something that takes my energy away. So if anybody thinks about visiting Amalfi and the coast go there out of season.
p.s. and yes, I think that paying for visiting a church is not OK.
September 17, 2013 @ 3:17 PM
Thanks Agata! I wouldn’t mind spending time in Sorrento or Salerno one of these days. Since Sorrento technically isn’t on the Amalfi Coast, we didn’t really want to stay there, but I would consider it on another trip. And definitely during shoulder season, like May or September. Plus I feel like Sorrento and Salerno are bigger cities and have more local feel to them, whereas Positano and Amalfi are small towns to begin with, so it’s easier for them to feel overwhelmed with tourists.
September 19, 2013 @ 8:17 AM
Hi Ali,
You’re right about Salerno in terms of its size, however, Sorrento is pretty small and very similar to the towns you described (Amalfi and Positano). I was visiting the Amalfi Coast with my Italian friend who was a local and who was driving which made it really stress free.
While it is important to pick up the right time of the year (May and September are best) it is also important to visit the place at the right time of the day. I remember a beautiful late evening in Positano: there was like nobody on the beach and the town was sort of empty.
I am not a huge fan of crowds and I can tell you it is possible to visit Amalfi Coast and not get squashed by the tourists. It’s always best to stay with the locals.
I totally agree with you that crowds and the sense of being in artificial place focused on tourists takes away all pleasure. Well, to visit more authentic villages you would need to go further south: Pulia, Basilicata and Sicilia are full of them.
Ali, I hope that your next trip will be more pleasant.
Cheers!
September 19, 2013 @ 1:48 PM
Ok, I didn’t realize Sorrento was such a small town, though I’m not sure why I assumed it was bigger. Good to know! We might go back to the Amalfi Coast with my parents next year, and we’ll most likely stay in Maiori, the next town over from Minori where Andy and I stayed this time. Still small, but a little bigger than Minori (hence the names).
I’d LOVE to visit the southern parts of Italy! The pictures I’ve seen look gorgeous, and I like that there aren’t as many tourists. My mom’s grandparents came from Calabria, so that will be part of the potential trip to Italy with my parents next year. I just love Italy, and I could explore different parts for ages!
September 19, 2013 @ 4:34 PM
Sicily is gorgeous!
I had been living in Italy for couple years and had the opportunity to visit many awesome places. Sicily is one of them. I’m keeping my fingers crossed for you and your parents so you could visit it one day!
September 19, 2013 @ 7:21 PM
Thanks Agata!
September 17, 2013 @ 7:38 AM
What a shame about Positano! It’s good you were able to head back to Minori which I’m sure felt like a breath of fresh air. Your pictures are beautiful though 🙂
Happy travels!
September 17, 2013 @ 3:18 PM
Thanks Lauren! Both towns really were gorgeous, but I was happy to be back in Minori where it was quiet.
September 17, 2013 @ 8:35 AM
Sometimes when you have found your own little slice of heaven, as you did Minori, it’s hard to leave it and face the crowds. It’s too bad you had to find a place that is so well known and popular to be disappointing. Paying that much for gelato would have made me seriously unhappy.
September 17, 2013 @ 3:20 PM
Thanks Katherine! I totally understand why those towns are popular, they really are gorgeous. I just hate when a place feels like it only exists for tourists to come and spend money. I like places that feel like real cities where locals go about their daily lives, and I just didn’t get that from Amalfi and Positano.
September 18, 2013 @ 11:14 PM
Oh no – what a shame! I’ve always dreamed of visiting the Amalfi Coast but sounds like I wouldn’t enjoy it
September 18, 2013 @ 11:26 PM
No, we LOVED the Amalfi Coast! We just didn’t like those towns, which are the big name touristy towns. There are plenty of other towns along the coast that are less crowded. You should totally still go there someday!
September 29, 2013 @ 1:01 AM
That’s a shame that you had such a bad experience in Positano. We had lunch in a restaurant on top of the hill that overlooked the town below. The food was fantastic. It all depends what time of the year you go. We went in April and it wasn’t very crowded with tourist. I would definitely go back again. Great pictures of the town.
September 29, 2013 @ 4:33 PM
I’m sure we would’ve enjoyed it more at a less busy time of year. I also think we were just having such a relaxing time in our quiet town of Minori that going to Amalfi and Positano was a bit jarring. Definitely gorgeous places regardless!
November 29, 2013 @ 12:14 AM
Thanks for the heads up. I think if we get there we’ll have to check out Minori or another smaller city to stay in and maybe just make a stop in the tourist cities. I agree with you on not liking when places that seem like they “only exist for tourists to come and spend money”. That’s a good way of putting it and exactly how my husband and I felt about Lloret de Mar. We went on a bus trip there which had a day trip to Barcelona. We were pretty much over Lloret inside a few hours (especially once we started getting offered drugs every five steps), but we didn’t get to see a fraction of everything we wanted to in Barcelona. We decided if we go back we’ll just go straight to Barcelona.
November 30, 2013 @ 12:08 PM
Minori was nice, if a bit small. The next town over, called Maori, looked a little bigger but still not nearly as touristy as Amalfi or Positano. If we go back, we might try that town instead. And if we’re there during more of the off season, I might consider taking the boat over to Amalfi or Positano again because I’ve heard they’re not bad outside of tourist season. But I’d also be ok skipping them altogether.
March 4, 2017 @ 6:35 PM
I am looking to go in July
Is there an itinerary you recommend?
Staying in a couple of the towns and doing day trips to the rest?
Looking to go to amalfi, position, capri, ravello and sorrento.
March 7, 2017 @ 9:53 AM
Hi Kiara! I think it depends on how long you will be on the Amalfi Coast. I think it’s worth seeing Amalfi town and Positano, but they’re both much more expensive and much more crowded, so I personally wouldn’t want to base myself there. Ravello is definitely worth a visit, and maybe even a night, but it’s far up the hill and removed from the rest of the towns, so I think it’s worth staying somewhere along the coast to get both perspectives. I did it as a day trip, and I thought that was good. I didn’t make it to Capri or Sorrento, though I’ve heard good things about both. I stayed in a town called Maiori a few years ago (after the trip I wrote about here) and it was big enough to have lots of hotels and restaurants yet didn’t feel overly crowded and touristy. It was only a few towns over from Amalfi town, so it was easy to get the bus. It’s probably worth picking one or two towns to stay in and do day trips to anywhere else you want to see. Most places are close enough and I think it would be a pain to move from town to town each night. Maybe stay in Sorrento for a few nights and then somewhere along the Amalfi Coast (Sorrento isn’t technically part of the Amalfi Coast) like Amalfi or Maiori for a few nights? Sorrento is also a good base if you want to visit Pompeii, and I think it’s a little easier to get to Capri from Sorrento.
March 24, 2017 @ 4:09 AM
This post makes me kind of glad I visited both of these towns in the winter. I got great photos with no people in them and no one hassled me. I didn’t feel duped by any restaurant owners. I also stayed in Minori. I rented an apt thru airbnb. It’s interesting to read about your experience here in summer. Good to know.
March 26, 2017 @ 6:40 PM
Mary, I think you made the right decision. Wasn’t Minori cute? We really liked it. We were actually back on the Amalfi Coast in mid October a year or so after this visit, and while it was less crowded than our June visit, there were still tons of tourists and we still felt hassled and ripped off in Amalfi. I bet winter was a much calmer time to be there!
September 18, 2018 @ 12:43 AM
Hi Mary, Ali, and others
I’m taking my teenaged kids to Italy for during their Christmas holiday this year and have an option to visit the Amalfi Coast in early January 2019. I’m going for a 1 day visit primarily for the coastal highway drive and will hire a driver so I can enjoy the views and take some photos. I know you can see the Villa Ruffelo and Villa Cimbrone in Ravello and plan to visit these. The question I have is….. what else should I do? Just walk through Positano or Amalfi or both? I don’t really care to see any of the churches because we’ll already have seen St Peters, The Duomo in Florence and many others by that point in the trip. I’m also not particularly interested in shopping. If you feel that the attraction is just that the towns are picturesque, then maybe visit just one of these? If so which one? Any advice would be appreciated.
October 17, 2018 @ 10:51 AM
Hi Mark, sorry for the late reply, I was traveling with almost no internet connection. If you’re planning on visiting the Amalfi Coast as a day trip and only have time for either Positano or Amalfi Town, I suggest Positano. I think it’s prettier and a bit more of that classic view you always see in pictures of the Amalfi Coast. Just keep in mind that lots of businesses are closed at that time of year. Sorrento is also pretty and a bit bigger, so more things should be open, but it’s *technically* not on the Amalfi Coast.
July 23, 2018 @ 1:57 PM
Ali I have just come across your post, as I’ve just returned from honeymooning in Rome and Positano. I too felt extremely disappointed with Positano as it just felt like it is purely designed for tourists- my husband and I were so disappointed. We had 5 nights there, we were over it by the second night! We stayed slightly out of the main beach area and it was beautifully quiet, but everything was such an effort there. There was/is no local culture, which really disappointed us as we are people who love to see culture (hubby is a photographer) and there’s just zero. We also visited Amalfi and Capri and once again, all for the tourists! I googled “disappointment with Positano” and your post came up- I’m so glad that I’m not the only person to return from Positano feeling let down. Nobody can believe we were so disappointed, but really, I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone unless it’s for a day trip. What a shame!
July 24, 2018 @ 5:41 PM
Hi Renae! I’m so sorry your experience in Positano wasn’t great. It really is gorgeous and I totally understand why so many people want to go there, but I agree, I have a hard time recommending anyone go there. I’ve been to the Amalfi Coast twice, and it’s worth staying in other lesser known towns and just hopping over to Amalfi Town and/or Positano as a day trip. We quite enjoyed taking the ferry because then we got the pretty views without all the crowds. I hope you enjoyed your time in Rome at least!
August 5, 2018 @ 11:15 PM
Hi, I have just come back from staying in Italy. We went on a lovely boat trip which included a stop in Positano. The last time I was there was in the Spring of 1995. It has changed so much. I remember a quiet and quaint hillside town with a few shops selling very reasonably priced ceramic tiles. It was nothing like the commercial, trendy – expensive place that it has now become. I liked it better the first time and I will treasure my vague and sentimental memories.
August 6, 2018 @ 8:56 AM
So sorry to hear that, Chris, but I’m glad you have those older memories to hold onto. It’s sad because it’s such a beautiful region, but the overly commercial feel to it is kind of ruining it. Unfortunately I feel like a lot of places are ending up like that these days.